The puer that we produce under our brand "Cha Ren" 茶仁 is
entirely hand made. Not just hand picked, but hand processed, from wilting, kill-green
& rolling, to steaming, pressing & drying. Whilst a hand made tea is not guaranteed to be better tasting than a machine made tea, there is something inherently beautiful about tea made by experienced hands. We should not take it for granted, especially when you consider that most teas these days are machine made, even high end Japanese green teas, Chinese Wulongs, and Darjeelings.
Recently Belle and I have been watching the fabulous BBC series
Victorian Farm, in which 3 historians go back in time and live a year on a farm, using only Victorian era breeds, crops & farming technology. The show brings home how much tedious manual labor was required before electricity & machines, but it also celebrates traditional
handicrafts that are now in danger of becoming forgotten. A key element of the
show is how the industrial revolution changed the farmer’s way of life, mechanizing
production and forcing many to look to new ways of making a living.
There are many
similarities with what is happening in China today. I believe that the cottage
industry of farmers picking and processing their own tea by hand will gradually decline, as small land holders have to consolidate to compete with the bigger factories. Each year more maocha processing stations
and factories are setup, to centrally process tea leaves at scale, with
consistent quality and lower costs. But in that process there is something lost,
something personal and magic, which comes from a more direct connection to the land and the
hands that work it.
2011 Spring Mangzhi by Tea Urchin X Gao Fa Chang |
Last year we
collaborated with Yiwu school teacher & puer scholar, Gao Fa Chang, to produce a limited run of 50 Spring Mangzhi and Autumn Yibang cakes for us. These cakes were completely hand made, and wrapped in hand made
Dai paper. Before steaming & pressing, Mr. Gao sorted the maocha by hand,
using tweezers to inspect each leaf one by one, and discarding 15% of the
maocha to create an exceptionally high quality 精品 "jing pin" product. This labor
intensive process, took him 4-5 months to complete, and you can see and taste
the quality in each cup. As a mark of his pride in this production, each cake bears Mr. Gao's seal, stamped in red on the
wrapper, and his hand-written signature on the neifei.
These 2011 cakes sold out surprisingly fast. So we travelled with Mr. Gao to his home range of Xikong and Yibang, as well as nearby Gedeng & Mangzhi, in the end producing two new Gao Fa Chang cakes for 2012: a Spring Xikong, and a Spring Mangzhi.
A cake produced with so much craftsmanship & care, deserves a wrapper to match. So this year we
took some of the Dai paper we hand made in Yunnan, and sent it to my sister, Elaine Su-Hui Chew, who is a talented artist & print maker in New York. She carved two lino cuts
for us, and printed them herself.
Tasseography by Elaine Suhui Chew |
Her first design is inspired by the symbols used in tasseography - the practice of reading tea leaves to divine your fortune.
Each symbol reveals something of the fate that awaits you. Visit Elaine's blog to discover what these symbols mean.
Printing Peonies |
The second design
is a variation on a peony motif that my sister often uses in her artwork. You can see a giant peony lino-cut on her blog.
You can see the care & craft Elaine put into each print. She
also signed each sheet, which is a nice personal touch. Collaborating with my
sister & Mr. Gao has infused these cakes with special meaning. Whilst we
live on opposite ends of the earth, together we’ve produced something rare... a
completely hand crafted tea, made with love, and wrapped in art.
The pressing pad looks similar to a bamboo tong wrapper |
Tea hieroglyphs |
Like the moon in the night sky |
Peony in Red |
The final result looks magnificent, and we’re very proud to share it with you. These 2012 Spring Xi Kong & Mang Zhi cakes are the realisation of our vision for Tea Urchin. Not to sell tea like a commodity, but to add something of ourselves to it - creating something playful yet wise - a meaningful tea, that increases your appreciation of life.
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ReplyDeleteLovely prints Eugene. What a great idea & so kind of your sister.
ReplyDeleteI share your sentiments about handmade tea. The human touch adds something very special to the process. I feel that it is important to support those who continue this traditional craft. So many farmers/producers these days are turning to machine processing in the search for greater efficiency and consistency, but in turn something often seems lacking in these 'clinically perfect' teas.
I hope the teas turn out well & look forward to drinking some in the future.
David
Great to read new stuff from you, Eugene!
ReplyDeleteAnd what a great subject. I wonder if it isn't exactly this handmade side of the product, this absurdly rich craftsmanship and cultural universe the main element that moves us, tea aficionados, to keep doing what we do. For me all this often comes way before and lasts way longer than the sensorial aspects of the product.
Joao.
Nice post Eugene! Your approach is more then admirable.
ReplyDeleteI Just met my friends who have spent this spring in Yiwu area and they where quite sad about "leaf rush" (gold rush) they found there...sapossedly big changes even from last year season. Fortunatelly there are still people who think about sustainable development.
Petr
I think the biggest draw to your productions is that they are Entirely Handmade. You go even further giving us the story and pictures for where they come from. You are doing a great thing here. Everything is turning to these new innovations pushing the true artisans aside. I hope the traditional ways stay alive. Its just like the Walmart and Walgreens effect putting many small local shops out of business. Its a shame.
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ReplyDeleteEugene,
ReplyDeleteSo nice to see a new and wonderful blog post! It was particularly fantastic to see a lino cut in action in this day and age. It is a thing of beauty. Lino and wood cuts were my favorite discipline while I was working toward being a practicing artist into my 20s -which alas never came to be.
This post has made me even more excited for these new teas, as if I thought that was possible.
Eric
Nice posting, thank you for sharing. Happy teas!
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